Is the Alaskan Klee Kai the right breed for you?
Please read through our frequently asked questions to learn more about Alaskan Klee Kai
Q: Do Alaskan Klee Kai Shed?
A: YES! Alaskan Klee Kai do shed, quite a bit! Alaskan Klee Kai typically blow their coats twice a year, but also shed inbetween.
They have two types of coats, their under coat which is the plush and soft first layer and the top coat which
is made up of more coarse guard hairs. Blowing coat means that they will lose their undercoat. When this happens, their coat will come out in tufts of fur. A good bath to loosen up that hair and brushing frequently will go a long way. You may also opt for bringing your little fur ball to the groomer to help get the undercoat out during the blow. NEVER USE A FURMINATOR AND ALWAYS TELL YOUR GROOMER TO NOT USE ONE. A Furminator is actually a blade that will cut through to the coat, doing so will cause your Alaskan Klee Kai's coat to grow back in improperly. This tool should never be used on a double coated breed. Alaskan klee kai can also blow out their top coat. This does not happen as frequently as blowing out the under coat. Never shave your AKK.
Q: What is the temperament of the Alaskan Klee Kai like?
A: Alaskan Klee Kai have a tendency to be a shy/reserved breed. Without adequate socialization and desensitization as a puppy to young adult, Alaskan Klee Kai may become clingy to you and want very little to do with strangers, friends, guests, and even family. I can never stress enough with my puppy owners that when taking a puppy home from us- to get out there and expose your puppy to the world around them. Good experiences lead to good behavior. Unfortunately, Alaskan Klee Kai are not born social butterflies like Golden Retrievers or Labradors. To achieve the personality you want from this breed, you must put in the time and effort as a puppy. We start our puppies socialization and desensitization off early from the day they are born here, so they will have a head start. It's much easier than it sounds, but lacking on this very important aspect could be the difference between a shy/reserved dog or a friendly/confident dog.
Alaskan Klee Kai are smart, clever, and curious. They are highly trainable and very loving to their humans.
Q: Do Alaskan Klee Kai get along well with other dogs?
A: Yes, they do! When you bring home an Alaskan Klee Kai puppy, make sure you you find calm and friendly dogs to introduce him/her to for positive and safe experiences. This breed has a pack mentality much like their husky cousins. They enjoy the companionship of other friendly dogs.
Q: How are they with cats?
A: Although this a breed that has a prey drive, early introduction to cats and training will help give you cat-friendly dog.
Q: Can Alaskan Klee Kai be trusted of leash?
A: NO. Please. No matter how much you trust your Alaskan Klee Kai, never let him/her off leash. This breed has a prey drive, energy, and feel they can take on the world. They may seem like they would never leave your side and they can be your shadow around the house, but they more than likely will take off if they have the opportunity. The only time an Alaskan Klee Kai should be allowed off leash is when you are in a fenced in, secured area.
Q: How energetic are Alaskan Klee Kai?
A: They are an energetic breed, which means a couple of nice long walks during your day & mentally stimulating games. They make excellent hiking and jogging partners. Although this breed does require a good amount of exercise, they won't make a big deal if they are home with you on a lazy day every now and then watching TV on the couch, all cuddled up.
Q: How long do Alaskan Klee Kai live?
A: Alaskan Klee Kai have a life expectancy of about 12-14 years. However, there are quite a few Alaskan Klee Kai that have surpassed their life expectancy and gave their owners up to 4 more years of love and enjoyment. A good diet and healthy life style will go a long way for them.
Q: Do Alaskan Klee Kai bark?
A: Yes, They do. They are a vocal breed.
Q: How are Alaskan Klee Kai in apartments?
A: This comes down to training. You want to start crate training as soon as possible as the only concern I have with apartments is that they do bark as mentioned above & if they are not taught to be left alone very early on, you will be creating a dog that will be anxious and bark when you leave. No play pens, CRATE training. The first week or two can be the most difficult and the puppy should learn and practice crate training BOTH while you are home in the house with them and when you are out of the house. A puppy crying in the crate does not automatically mean they have separation anxiety, it means they need to be taught what the crate is and that it's a safe space for them to be comfortable. Puppies do not automatically understand why they are being crated and you can expect some vocalization. The first time you put your puppy in a crate should NOT be the first time you need to use it. The more training and exercise, the less you will have to worry. There are plenty of Alaskan Klee Kai living comfortable in an apartment with their humans. Stay on top of early training, you shouldn't have any problems.
Q: Should I take my Alaskan Klee Kai puppy to doggy obedience?
A: YES! I HIGHLY recommend this! Reason being, not only is the great for kicking off training, but even if you have the training down yourself, this is WONDERFUL for socializing and exposure. They will be around other dogs/puppies and other people during your classes. This is very beneficial to the breed and raising a confident Alaskan Klee Kai.
Q: What color and coats do Alaskan Klee Kai come in?
A: Alaskan Klee Kai can have Grey and white, black and white, and red and white coats. Occasionally they can be all white. Their coat length can vary from medium/plush to medium/long.
Q: What are the sizes of Alaskan Klee Kai?
A: There are 3 different sizes that Alaskan Klee Kai can be.
Toy: Up to and including 13 inches
Miniature: Above 13 inches up to and including 15 inches
Standard: Above 15 inches up to and including 17 inches
Q: What size Alaskan Klee Kai do you normally breed for?
A: When breeding Alaskan Klee Kai, you can not match two dogs and breed for a set size at this time. This means that you can breed two miniature Alaskan Klee Kai and end up with only Toys and Standards in the litter. Same goes for all size combinations when breeding. There is no guarantee that there will be a certain size Alaskan Klee Kai in any litter, despite what size the parents are.
Q: What kind of papers do Alaskan Klee Kai come with?
A: Whether you are planning on bringing home a puppy from me or another breeder, please ALWAYS make sure your Alaskan Klee Kai puppy is coming with United Kennel Club registration papers. Odds are, if your Alaskan Klee Kai does not come with these papers, it is not purebred. Alaskan Klee Kai who are registered with the United Kennel Club can also be record with the American Kennel Club Foundation Stock Services. No other registry is acceptable or legitimate for Alaskan Klee Kai.
Q: I've never owned a dog before, is an Alaskan Klee Kai a good first choice?
A: This breed takes some dog experience. Someone who is familiar with training, dog behavior, and the energy level this breed has. This depends on your level of research, life style, and commitment to a breed that can have more challenges than your average dog.
UNITED KENNEL CLUB BREED STANDARDS
The Alaskan Klee Kai is a small version of a type of dog referred to as the Alaskan Husky, with a wedge-shaped head featuring a striking masked face, prick ears, and a double coat. The length of body is just slightly longer than the height. The tail is well-furred and curls over the back or to either side when the dog is alert or moving. The appearance of the Alaskan Klee Kai reflects the breed’s Northern heritage.
Disqualifications: Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid. Viciousness or extreme shyness.
The most distinctive characteristic of the Alaskan Klee Kai is the facial mask, which must be clearly visible due to contrasting colors. The full face mask is the most desirable. The Alaskan Klee Kai is very curious, active, quick and agile. His loyalty and alertness make the Alaskan Klee Kai an excellent watchdog, who may be territorial despite his small size. While affectionate with family members, the Alaskan Klee Kai is reserved and cautious with strangers and in unfamiliar situations.
HEAD The head is clean, free of wrinkles, proportionate to the size of the body, with a moderate stop.
When viewed from the top or side, the skull and muzzle taper toward the nose to form a broad-based wedge shape.
Faults: Narrow head; insufficient stop; stop too steep.
SKULL The skull is slightly rounded and somewhat broad, tapering gradually from the widest point to the eyes.
Faults: Skull too flat or too domed.
MUZZLE The length of the muzzle, from stop to nose, is equal to or slightly shorter than the length of the skull, from occiput to stop. When viewed from the side or from above, the muzzle tapers slightly from where it joins the skull to the nose. The muzzle is well-filled-in under the eyes. The lower jaw is strong, but not protruding. Lips are tightly closed and black, except that liver-colored lips are acceptable in dogs whose coat colors are shades of red with white.
Faults: Loosely hanging lips; a shallow or receding lower jaw; a pinched or snipey muzzle; a too short or too long muzzle.
TEETH A full complement of strong white teeth meet in a scissors bite.
Fault: Level bite.
Disqualifications: Overshot or undershot bite, wry mouth.
NOSE A solid black nose is preferred, although the pink-streaked “snow nose” is acceptable. A liver-colored nose is acceptable in dogs whose coat colors are shades of red with white. In profile, the nose is on the same line as the top of the muzzle and extends just slightly beyond the lower jaw.
EYES The eyes are of medium size and may be any color or combination of colors. Almond-shaped eyes are the most desirable, followed in order of preference by oval and round. The eyes are set obliquely. Eye rims are black except that liver eye rims are acceptable in dogs whose coat colors are shades of red with white.
Faults: Eyes set too wide or too close together.
Eliminating Fault: Bulging eyes.
EARS The ears are prick, strongly erect and pointed upward, well-furred, triangular in shape, and slightly large in proportion to the size of the head. The leather is thick from base to tip. The ears are set so that the inner edge of each ear is above the inner half of the eye below it. Ear tips are slightly rounded. The ears are extremely mobile and react sensitively to sounds.
Fault: Ears set too low.
Disqualification: Hanging or drop ears.
NECK The neck is medium in length, arched, and carried proudly erect when the dog is standing. When moving at a trot, the neck is extended so that the head is carried slightly forward.
Faults: Neck too short and thick; neck too long.
FOREQUARTERS The shoulders are moderately laid back. The scapula and the upper arm form an angle of about 110 degrees. The shoulder blade and the upper arm are roughly equal in length.
FORELEGS Viewed from the front, the forelegs are straight, parallel, and spaced moderately apart, with moderate to fine bone in proportion to the size of the dog. Pasterns are flexible and strong, moderately short, and slightly sloping. Elbows are neither close to the body nor out, but are set on a plane parallel to the body.
Faults: Straight shoulders; weak pasterns; short upper arm. East-west front/feet turning outward.
BODY In profile, the length of the body, from the point of the shoulder to the rear of the buttocks, is slightly longer than the height of the body from the withers to the ground. The withers are just slightly higher than the croup. The topline of the back is level from just behind the withers to the loin, which is slightly arched. The croup is broad and very slightly sloping.
The ribs are well sprung out from the spine, forming a strong back, then curving down and inward to form a body that would be nearly heart-shaped if viewed in cross-section. The loin is strong and short but narrower than the rib cage and with a slight tuck-up.
The chest is moderately broad and let down to the elbows. When viewed from the side, the lowest point of the chest is immediately behind the foreleg. The forechest should extend in a shallow oval shape in front of the forelegs but the sternum should not be excessively pointed.
Faults: Chest too broad; barrel or flat ribs; slack or roached back. High in rear.
HINDQUARTERS Viewed from the rear, the rear pasterns are parallel to each other, and spaced moderately apart. The rear legs are moderately well angulated at stifle and hock joints. The rear pasterns are well let down and perpendicular to the ground when viewed from any angle.
Serious Faults: Over-angulation; hocks turned in or out; thin or weak thighs.
FEET The feet are sized in proportion to the bone of the individual dog, oval in shape, and well-knuckled up. The pads are thickly cushioned and well furred between the toes and pads. Hair on the feet may be trimmed between the pads and around the outer edges of the feet. All dewclaws should be removed.
Faults: Splayed feet; long feet; poorly cushioned pads.
TAIL The tail should be well furred and set on just below the level of the topline. The preferred tail carriage is a loose curl, which falls to the center of the back or drapes to either side of the body. The tail may hang down when the dog is relaxed or in unfamiliar situations but forms a loose curl when the dog is alert or moving. Dark hairs at the tip of the tail are preferred.
Faults: Tail stands away from the back or sides of the body when curled.
Disqualification: Tail too short to curl over and touch the back.
COAT The coat is double and of sufficient length to give a well furred appearance reminiscent of the breed’s Alaskan Husky heritage. The coat is never so long as to obscure the outline of the dog. The neck is well furnished with hair, which forms a protective ruff blending into the apron. The tail is well furred with longer hair at the base and underside of the tail. Longer-coated dogs may have some feathering on the rear of the front legs; the rear of the hindquarters, from the buttocks to the hock joint; underside of the body and tail; and the ears.
The undercoat is soft, dense, and of sufficient length to support the outer coat. The guard hairs of the outer coat are straight and never harsh nor extremely soft. The absence of undercoat during the shedding season is normal. This breed is presented in a completely natural condition except that trimming of hair between the pads and around the feet to present a neater appearance is permissible.
Serious Faults: Coat that is so long as to obscure the outline of the dog; trimming other than described above.
COLOR All coat colors acceptable provided that the facial mask is distinct and clearly visible and there is a contrasting lighter color on the dog’s throat, chest, breeches, feet, legs and underside. The overall appearance is one of symmetry.
The most desirable mask consists of dark coloration on the skull which extends down the bridge of the muzzle and under the eyes, provided that the darker color under the eyes extends no more than halfway down the muzzle; light spots over the eyes; and a contrasting lighter color extending up the cheeks to a line between the outside corners of the eyes and the base of the ears, down the sides of the muzzle, under the jaw, and down the throat. The fur on the inside of the ears should also be of the same lighter contrasting color.
Any of the following markings are very desirable but it is not necessary that all be present: Light spots over the eyes; a light blaze centered in the middle of the skull and stop; a dark strip down the center of the muzzle which may or may not be evenly divided by a narrow light-colored strip; dark coloration under the eyes; and dark coloration at the tip of the tail. With the exception of the blaze and the light spots above the eyes, the more of the lighter contrasting color present on the upper part of the face, the less desirable is the mask, with the least acceptable being the Widow’s Peak (where the entire face is of the lighter color with just a small dark area capping the top of the head and a point dropping into the center of the upper forehead).
Eliminating Faults: Absence of required lighter contrasting color described above; asymmetrical markings visible while the dog is standing; any distinct area of lighter contrasting color on the topline, known as a “cape”; a dark strip on the center of the muzzle that extends down the sides of the muzzle; distinct spots of lighter contrasting color anywhere other than the spots over the eyes, the blaze on the head, or the tip of the tail. An all-white dog.
Disqualifications: Absence of distinct mask; solid coat color (other than white) lacking distinct and contrasting markings; albinism.
HEIGHT & WEIGHT It is intended that the Alaskan Klee Kai remain a small to medium-sized dog. Height is measured from the withers to the ground. An Alaskan Klee Kai should not appear heavy or too thin. Weight should be proportionate to height.
Toy Variety: Up to and including 13 inches.
Miniature Variety: Over 13 inches and up to and including 15 inches.
Standard Variety: Over 15 inches up to and including 17 inches.
Serious Fault: Over 17 inches up to and including 17½ inches.
Eliminating Fault: Over 17½ inches in height.
GAIT The Alaskan Klee Kai should move with the smooth, effortless, agile gait of his Arctic forebears. When in the show ring, they should be gaited on a loose lead at a moderately fast trot, exhibiting good reach in the forequarters and good drive in the hindquarters. When viewed from front to rear while moving at a walk, the Alaskan Klee Kai does not single-track, but as the speed increases, the legs gradually angle inward until the pads are falling on a line directly under the longitudinal center of the body. As the pad marks converge, the forelegs and hind legs are carried straight forward, with neither elbows nor stifles turned in or out. While the dog is gaiting, the topline remains firm and appears level.
Faults: Short, prancing or choppy gait, lumbering or rolling gait; crossing or crabbing.
Judges must penalize dogs with any one of the following serious faults and withhold championship points from any dog possessing two or more of these faults. Breeders should take as strict or even stricter view of these serious faults in their breeding program.
Coat: Coat that is so long as to obscure the outline of the dog; trimming other than as described in “Coat” paragraph.
Height and Weight: Over 17 inches up to and including 17½ inches.
Hindquarters: Over angulation; hocks turned in or out; thin or weak thighs.
(An Eliminating Fault is a Fault serious enough that it eliminates the dog from obtaining any awards in a conformation event.)
Over 17½ inches in height.
Color: Absence of required lighter contrasting color as described in “Color” paragraph; asymmetrical markings visible while the dog is standing; any distinct area of lighter contrasting color on the topline, known as a “cape”; a dark strip on the center of the muzzle that extends down the sides of the muzzle; distinct spots of lighter contrasting color anywhere other than the spots over the eyes, the blaze on the head, or the tip of the tail. An all white dog.
(A dog with a Disqualification must not be considered for placement in a bench show/conformation event, and must be reported to UKC.)
Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid. Viciousness or extreme shyness. Albinism. Over or undershot bite. Wry mouth. Hanging or drop ears. Tail too short to curl over and touch the back. Absence of mask. Solid coat color lacking distinct and contrasting markings.
Please Note: In UKC Conformation Shows, this breed is shown by variety in this order – Toy, Miniature, Standard.